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Majority Sinhalese let loose on a propaganda tour to Sri Lanka's subdued north. All photos courtesy the author. The tour bus had far more passengers than seats, but no one around me seemed to mind.
Most of the pilgrims were dancing anyway. A boy played drums; a middle-aged woman shook a yellow tambourine. In a joyous frenzy, children, teenagers and adults danced tirelessly in the aisle as the vehicle bounced along one of the few roads of the northeastern tourist trail that has not been reconstructed.
Only the eldest were seated, infants in their laps, clapping to the calypso music blasting from the speakers and passing around a flask of Ceylon tea. Everyone sang along. Since the conflict ended, Sri Lankans themselves have established a macabre domestic tourist trail in silence. Many remnants of the Tamil Tiger rebels have been deleted from history, but the abandoned bunker home of their reclusive leader Velupillai Prabhakaran had been transformed into one of the key destinations, complete with a shooting range, an underground garage and empty cages of guard dogs.
Inside, it was a damp, pitch-black maze. Eventually, a smiling young soldier-tour guide came to their rescue and showed them to the sunny, although not fully clear of landmines, jungle outside. For days, she marveled at how the Tiger leader could live like that; it seemed so far from the luxury she had imagined. Why should we go see a bunker of a man who has done so much evil?