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Young men wore their best silver khanjar daggers, old men carried heirloom swords and bandoliers that still fitted their waists after half a century. Each was dressed in his best for the English nurse. Of course I remember her," said Mohammed Yahmoor, a man in his 40s. Of course I remember her. Hundreds attended this week's celebrations in Ras Al Khaimah city in honour of Ruth Ash, the English woman who had worked as the nurse here from until and who was returning for the first time since the s.
Mrs Ash, nee Willis, set up the emirate's first modern hospital and travelled by Land Rover to outlying communities under the protection of tribal sheikhs to fight polio, cholera and malnutrition. Mrs Ash did not intend to return to the wadis as a celebrity, and she did not come alone. She travelled in Ras Al Khaimah this week with other Britons who lived here in the s, shortly before the country's unification. The British visitors were welcomed with the nadbah war cry of the mountain tribes.
Some 35 years earlier Mrs Ash had married an Englishman at a celebration much like this one. The men's ward was "just a dump for old furniture", she said.
The labour ward was a "rusty old operating table which was slightly skewed and a very elegant tea tray". It had a pair of scissors, a pair of forceps and a primus stove. The outpatient room was a desk covered in pills. The examination room had three blunt syringes that were used for everyone. That was it. An Oxford-trained nurse for the British government, Mrs Ash made an inventory list "which took about five seconds flat".
