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Drenched with frequent monsoon rains, the usually arid landscape along the highway to Kilinochchi, a town at the very north of Sri Lanka, is now lush and green. My friends and I stop for tea near the Thandikulam railway station as another brief but violent downpour begins.
Ram, the shopkeeper, owns only three cups, so his other customers will have to wait for us to finish. On his table is a local newspaper, dated October 22, But while life is much better, crime and sex offenses against women are rampant in this age of corrupt politicians, as opposed to iron-fisted rebel leaders.
One of those faults was brutality toward his own people. In fact, he asks that we not reveal his last name. Showing even the slightest sign of sympathy for the LTTE, he says, can get you into trouble with the government security forces, who now control the area.
We are in Vavuniya, the first major city in the Northern Province of Sri Lanka, following travelers from the south along the A9 highway to Jaffna. While eight years have elapsed since, many southerners have still not visited the north. After tea we continue along the damp road to make a stop at Kilinochchi, the administrative capital of the LTTE from until just before the end of the Sri Lankan civil war in As we gaze at a water tank decimated by shelling, an old man on a bicycle stops to chat.