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In Serbia, smoking is still allowed in bars and restaurants. Despite it being a hotly-debated topic, there is no sign that it will be banned soon. I am joined by my friend Camilla — another journalist with an affinity for everything Balkan , who moved to Belgrade in the summer. It started happily in the s as a movement to modernise traditional sounds. In Bulgaria, it is called chalga, manele in Romania and tallava in Albania.
It has an irresistible pull, especially with its homoerotic videos, and though it was mostly listened to by elderly Serbs, it is making an ironic comeback with younger generations. BAM Club is chaotic. Gradually, guests — almost exclusively locals — trickle in as the band, led by Paganini, jams. I try to follow the rhythm, and though everyone around me knows I am a tourist, no one seems to judge my dancing skills. Dancing to turbo-folk to the late hours is an escapade I recommend to all tourists interested in immersing themselves in the local culture.
A few days earlier, I had boarded the very first British Airways flight from London Heathrow to Belgrade, after a pause of 13 years. A long time had passed since I had holidayed in the Serbian capital along with my parents, so I wanted to see what had changed.
Another must-see attraction is the Belgrade Fortress, located in the municipality of Stari Grad Old City , on the confluence of the picturesque Sava and Danube rivers. It consists of the old citadel and the sprawling Kalemegdan Park, and it represents the historical core of the capital.