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To the sensitive traveler the government of a country is almost as palpable as its geography. The ruler prints his own lineaments upon the ruled clearly as he stamps them on his medals. Everywhere the story is plain to read. The policeman on his beat fairly shouts it. It is more subtly told by the cleanliness of the streets, by national monuments cherished or neglected, by the quality of food and shelter, by prices and timetables.
The faces on the street reflect it. Not twenty-four hours after our Ford, wedged into a barge scarcely larger than itself, was ferried across the broad Guadiana which divides Spain from southernmost Portugal, I felt myself at home in a dictatorship very different from the Spain I had left. Before a week had passed I knew that dictator or no dictator, Portugal is blessed among the nations.
Of autocrats and their works I had left no American prejudice behind. Harvard College had taught me intensively about them; but the first rule of travel is to keep an open and observant mind. I felt instinctively but with certainty that the scene before me was new in my experience.
The Portuguese dictator, with power as unlimited, detests imperialism in any form. His aim is to restore the ancient simplicities through masterful but moderate control, subject in the most literal sense to the laws of morality. Like Mussolini, Salazar saw in parties only partisan conflict. He abolished them but, unlike his prototype, set up no party of his own. Strikes he judged intolerable and insisted upon their judicial settlement. The similarity and the contrast puzzled me deeply.
