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We headed from Oaxaca city to the Pacific Coast to spend a long weekend in the beach towns of Mazunte and Zipolite. After the first couple of days spent in the sleepy beach town of Mazunte we moved on to Zipolite, a beach town with a rep as a hippie and backpacker mecca.
We were dropped off at the edge of the village by a camioneta, or covered pick-up truck, which is the main mode of transport on this part of the coast. During the ten-minute walk to our hostel we spotted mainly abandoned or near-abandoned houses and hotels littered with For Rent and For Sale signs, and where were these hippies and backpackers we had been warned about? We found out that the hostel we booked online sits on the half of the mile-long beach which is now nearly deserted.
This sign initially seemed a tombstone of sorts. However, though Lyoban is past its prime, it is a pleasant family-run hostel with large rooms and an upper floor with several hammocks as a cheap option for backpackers. Lyoban sits just ten paces from the water, right on the beach, and the powerful waves of the Pacific were exciting to hear as we fell asleep. With a population of , Zipolite is only slightly larger than Mazunte, and has seen better days. During the s and s a hippie counterculture began to congregate on this isolated beach and, thanks in part to the limited law enforcement, Zipolite steadily gained a reputation in Mexico as a free love paradise.
The Pacific here is gorgeous in a way that begs you to stare out at it for hours. The waves and current make swimming and surfing here impossible, like many beaches along the Mexican Pacific. Watch out for the waves and pay attention to the flags which indicate whether wading is accepted or not on a given day. Your best bet is to stay in the comfortable shelter of the beachside bar, beer and book in hand. A residual aspect of its free-loving past, Zipolite is the only beach in Mexico where nude bathing is tolerated, although the locals frown upon the behaviour.
