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One of the great differences between the Ancient Greek and Roman civilisations is that whilst the former were predominantly seafarers the exception of course, was Alexander the Great , the Romans preferred to travel by land. And, whilst the journeys made by the Greeks have long been lost in the waves of the Mediterranean, the steps of the Romans are often just a few feet or inches beneath our feet.

And one of these great Roman routes is the Via Egnatia, which I set out to discover this summer. With a total distance of miles, it was constructed by the Romans in the second century BC as a route through harsh territory inhabited by unruly peoples to reach the Eastern Mediterranean and circumvent a journey that otherwise took several weeks by sea. Then, throughout the fourth and fifth centuries AD, the Via Egnatia fell into disrepair and the Emperor Justinian invested considerable energies in its repair.

The crusaders travelled along it. Bohemond I the son of Robert Guiscard captured Edessa. And in the later Middle Ages, it was also the route taken by the Turks as their way into Europe.

In more recent times, Edward Lear made the journey from Thessaloniki to Berat in Albania travelling along it. On this occasion however, my motive for making the journey was less to uncover the history, but simply to work out the practicalities of making the journey.