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I was alone, one week out of Khorog, on the edge of madness through exertion and hunger, when this song came on my little portable sound system. It reminded me of university. The lyrics, the sentiment and the cheerful riff — the memory — made me smile at my immediate situation. I had indeed taken off on my bicycle; I was certainly finding a new way of life; eat, sleep, cycle, repeat.
If you can, put that track on now, as you read all about the Pamir Highway Social Club. They are very heavy. A heavy bike is a big problem.
I was the south side of Toktogul reservoir on my way from Bishkek to Osh, the sun was high in the clear blue Central Asian sky and the unmistakable scent of wild flowers wafted by as we spoke.
Bertole was the first of a great many cyclists I would meet in the next eight weeks carrying news of the cyclists heading West on the road ahead. Bertole would become an ominous harbinger where the Swiss couple were concerned and his information, like that of almost every traveler encountered on the infamous Pamir Highway, would prove to be highly subjective and consequently wildly inaccurate. That night we camped together, making a feast of pasta, bread, honey and beer.