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And so, an update! I was joined by another PhD student who studies Central Asia and a mutual friend who works in Bishkek; the three of us are all easygoing, and plans for the trip came together about a week before we made it to the Pamirs.
I had the luxury of enjoying Dushanbe for a week before setting off to the Pamirs, but one of my travel mates flew in from Bishkek the morning before and had a crash-tour of the city. After stocking up on snacks for the road the good kind of instant coffee, crackers, spreadable cheese, cherries, cherry tomatoes, nuts, dried fruit , we made a quick walking tour of the city at dusk before heading to bed early. We woke up at to take a taxi to the bus depot in central Dushanbe in order to catch a shared Jeep to Khorog, the capital of Gorno-Badakhshan region in eastern Tajikistan.
Not long after getting out of the city stopped to buy some watermelon and talk to police officers who flagged the car down. This was a long , long ride. We stopped to take pictures of the Nurek Reservoir about an hour outside Dushanbe, stopped again in Kulob for lunch, stopped once more in Kulai-Kum to stretch our legs and buy more snacks, and stopped for the last time at some roadside cafe I think around Rushan? The women at Sheron Homestay were really helpful in navigating Gulom to the gate, and the accommodations were so comfortable after 14 hours on the road.
Our driver Jomart met us at Sheron Homestay in the morning, and we stocked up 5-liter containers of water at the bazaar and pulled out money from Orion Bank. After lunch in Ishkoshim, we made a pitstop at the Bibi Fatima hotsprings 10 somoni fee to go in, worth every diram and then some.