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I stopped off at The Madeira Story in downtown Funchal for a little background before catching the cable car up to Monte. Wicker is a big deal in Madeira; the industry is centred on the village of Camacha. Willow grows abundantly on the island, thanks to its humid climate. Riding a toboggan provided the means of getting down the very steep hill from Monte to the Livramento neighbourhood in comfort.
Having walked down from the end of the toboggan ride I can attest to the painful toll those gradients have on your toes, knees, calves and thigh muscles. However in some old photos the carreiros wear something akin to a funnel on their head instead.
In pairs, the carreiros drag the wicker cart on ropes to get some momentum, before running to the back ready to steer. At junctions these are proper roads used by cars too , spotters keep an eye out for oncoming traffic and ensure someone gives way. Fortunately, despite reaching speeds of up to 30kph — some say even faster — they seem to be pretty adept at stopping.
Rain was threatening and so the carreiros were beginning to pack away the wicker toboggans. This involved considerably less effort than a century ago. Back then, if this picture is to be believed, the toboggans were carried downhill on their shoulders. These days, all that has to be done is to bump the cart down a few steps, using the ropes to guide it. A one way adult ticket costs 11 euros. The toboggan ride costs 30 euros for two passengers solo travellers pay a hefty 25 euros.