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There was a time when accommodation options in Japan tended to fall into three categories: glossy international chains, dull homegrown business hotels and basic ryokan traditional inns , which despite their atmospheric tatami mats and wooden sliding doors were often light on comfort and mod cons.
But new options abound, particularly for the cultural traveller. Accommodation struggles to meet demand, so the arrival of this new high-end ryokan near the minimalist Ando Museum is especially welcome.
In classic ryokan style, the 11 suites have tatami mat flooring, paper sliding doors and sparse decor. But you also get private, open-air baths with water supplied by Yunogo hot springs on the mainland, multi-course sushi feasts and low-lying hybrid beds.
In keeping with the setting, Roka also acts as a gallery for emerging Japanese talent. Among the rice paddies of under-the-radar Toyama prefecture, on the northwest coast of central Japan, this year-old azumadachi east-facing farmhouse has been restored by local artisans, including silk weavers and makers of washi paper. Their craft underpins the modern Japanese design of the three guest rooms.