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Gazing above, I am greeted by the sight of the ginormous tengu mask in the photo above. Lazily looking around at the rest of the decor, I quickly wonder what century, let alone what decade, it is right now. Alas, any mental inquiries quickly melt away into hot spring bliss. Secluded deep in the mountains of the Nasu Highlands , this hidden hot spring is the type of establishment that I originally set out to feature when I started blogging.
At least as far as I can tell, some incarnation of what is now Kita Onsen Ryokan has been around for at least 1, years. Some other sources also suggest that the historic complex used to bear the name of Fudo-no-Yu in homage to Fudo Myoo , the Immovable King.
Even today, you can still find all sorts of references to this former reverence of the fiery Buddhist deity. The connection with Fudo Myoo makes a lot more sense when you realize that the entirety of the Nasu Highlands used to be a center for Shugendo and the practice of mountain asceticism.
After pushing themselves to their breaking points, these ascetic followers of Shugendo would recuperate in the hot spring waters of Fudo-no-Yu. The custom continued until the Tokugawa shogunate sought to eradicate the hard-to-control yamabushi and their cult of tengu worship entirely from Nasu. The present day Kita Onsen Ryokan got its start immediately following the removal of ascetic adherents from the mountains of Nasu.