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Elusive and enigmatic, the Japanese konyoku onsen , or nude mixed-bathing hot springs, is forbidding enough of access as to retain a quasi-mythical status—somewhere between the zebra and the unicorn—not only for foreigners but for Japanese as well.
Information about naked onsens is spotty even in the Internet age and often requires word-of-mouth or a personal guide. There is in fact a lineage of Japanese literati onsen fanatics, the Nobelist Yasunari Kawabata for one.
You have come up with the idea of visiting as many mixed onsens as possible over a year and write a book about it. There are hundreds of onsens in Japan, with an unknown number offering mixed bathing. As onsens all have their quirky business hours and may be closed on certain days of the week or in the winter season if the mountain roads become impassable , offer mixed bathing only on specified days or at certain times of the day, and so forth, much research is needed to work out the intricate scheduling before setting out.
A hearty dinner and breakfast is normally covered by the inn, but you still have to pay for lunch and the entrance fee for the day-visit spas. Transportation expenses, often involving a combination of rail and bus lines, can also quickly add up. How many people have that kind of time and money to spare? The intrepid traveler on a budget, starting in northern Japan in the spring and working his way down to the warmer parts in the winter, by mountain bike and personal tent, making use of all available campgrounds, cooking by campfire wherever possible, might considerably cut down on expenses.