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We are sailing dead into the rising sun, and you can see land. The land is the promontory called Mount Carmel on the northwest coast of Israel. When I spoke of this to my wife, she was enthusiastic, and more than ready to join me in the experiment. We land on Sunday, Jane and 1. Sunday in Haifa and in all Israel is a business day. After being released from customs, we head for a bank we have heard of. We go there to open an account. Perhaps the smaller the country, the redder the tape.
The paper work involved in our little transaction turns out to be staggering. Nevertheless, it apparently is. Very real. Indeed, a serious matter, and hence a subject for joking. The joke, however, comes later. This part of the city, lying at the foot of Mount Carmel, is the port.
With its shipping, commerce, trucking, banking, insurance, and goods from faraway places, Haifa, on this level, exhales the same gases and makes the same noises as many a contemporary city. It does so, however, with a difference. Arabs in burnouses catch our eye. We see all manner of Europeans. They are suddenly conspicuous by their absence. To the starter at the head of the line, I announce our destination: Hotel Shulamit.
Shulamit, Shulamite, we like the sound of the name, part of the reason why we selected it. The driver, however, does not know the place. Obviously, he is a newcomer in the country, and, as obviously, a Moroccan.