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Sure, about the only thing we have in common is a desire to set food on fire , you know, artfully. He does so these days to great acclaim on his private Patagonian island and 8 other restaurants around the world , accessible through two flights, a five-hour drive, and then minute raft across a lake. I live on a busy block of a crowded city accessible by nearly every format of public transportation, and do so to moderate acclaim relative mostly to how well the patrons slept that day under a wispy-by-design gas broiler.
Let me make no claims to the weekday appeal of this dish. It may not even have weekend appeal. I totally understand if you might find clearing nearly 3 hours just to cook a potato about as easy as buying a private Patagonian island. I only want you to promise that when you can, you will. But also: So, you know that only-in-America Thanksgiving sweet potato casserole with the marshmallows on top?
You can use or discard this information as you wish. The first time we made these, I finished them with a sizzling toasted spice oil — basically a tadka or chaunk in Indian cooking — with a dollop of lightly salted, lemony yogurt and a little pile of black lentils on the side.
It was amazing, but I almost felt like the sweet potato itself is so good, it deserves to be the whole story here. We also had a red cabbage salad on the side that we barely remember, but this one would do nicely. Arrange sweet potatoes on a large, foil-lined baking sheet. Heat your broiler and run the potatoes underneath it — mine is fairly weak, and this took 5 to 10 minutes, but check in regularly, a more robust one might do it in 1 to 2 minutes — until lightly charred on top. Let potatoes cool 10 minutes, then gently crush potatoes with your hands to expose the flesh; season with salt and finish with butter, or a topping of your choice.
