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After a long walk the day before we are happy to spend the night inside the Vakkotavare cabin. The weather becomes apocalyptic, with gale force winds howling through the valley and lashing rain battering the wooden roof. We sleep long and wait for change. Late in the morning it finally becomes dry and the wind suddenly drops.
Before heading north, however, we need a good wash really badly. We hoped to find a shower in the hut as it is located along the road towards Ritsem, but although there is an electricity line right next to the cabin, the STF constructed this hut like all their other mountain cabins: without power or running water let alone hot water.
We heat a bucket on the stove and go outside to try improve our body odor. Vakkotavare marks the start of a km section on the northern part of the famous Kungsleden trail.
This part of the Kungsleden cuts through the hearth of some of the highest mountain ranges in Sweden, and passes the foothills of Kebnekaise m , the highest summit of the country. As this trail is one of the most popular of Scandinavia, we expect easy walking and swift progress right towards the north.