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At one point, there was even a secret tunnel connecting the decadent joint with the French Senate, allowing philandering politicians to slip in and out undetected.
If the diamond left behind a scratch, it was the real deal. The 20th century brought new fame to 51 Quai des Grands Augustins. In , it became one of the first restaurants in Paris to be awarded three Michelin stars—an accolade that lasted for around three decades.
A new generation of political heavyweights and bright young things frequented the restaurant, including Ernest Hemingway and other members of the famed Lost Generation that converged on Paris in the s.
Many patrons, myself included, only came for the novelty. Because of this, I was able to overlook the lackluster menu and the tourists in stodgy pullovers that populated the main dining room during my first visit a couple of years ago. For others, however, the restaurant was no longer even on the radar. Enter Benjamin Patou. Adding to the 19th-century-style glamour were costumed performers and burlesque dancers, mounds of caviar, and many cases of champagne.