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The streets are lined with weatherboard houses, bejewelled by doors that are striped, dotted and tessellated in bright geometric designs.
Since the 19th century — long before the Soviets popularised the mud bath — Estonians, Swedes, Finns, Latvians and Russians flocked here to improve their health and wellbeing.
They came, and still come, to bathe, play and parade along its long stretch of white sandy beach, which gently slopes into the clear protected waters of Parnu Bay. In summer the shallow, sun-warmed waters attract bathers of all ages. The beach teems, revellers spill on to the dunes and events abound including the annual Oistrakh classical music festival in July, named after the Soviet violinist, David Oistrakh, who used to spend his summers here.
The bulk of the crowds are gone by mid-August, leaving a month or so of calmer beach time before temperatures plummet. In winter, you can sometimes walk on the sea or even drive the ice-road to outlying islands. I walk along unspoilt dunes by a pristine beach, my peace interrupted only by gusts of sea air and the occasional cyclist on the coast path.