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I had just moved to Argentina from Dubai, seeking to report on environmental issues. On the horizon I traced the silhouettes of the Sierra de la Ventana mountains, popular for hiking. Across Latin America, governments are building giant industrial complexes, oil refineries, gold and copper mines, and major transportation corridors, promising national development and funding for social policies. The phenomenon is known as redistributive extractivism: forests are razed, aquifers drained, and mountains mined to finance welfare and employment programs aimed at reducing poverty, even as environmental degradation increases it.
Venezuela, Bolivia, and Ecuador, under left-wing governments, have increased oil and mining production. He is also promoting a highway through pristine rainforest and a giant dam that has decimated river ecosystems. Sandra, Gabriel, and I dined at Gambrinus, a restaurant rated highly for its traditional Italian-Argentinean dishes. After our dinner of imported fish, they insisted on taking me for a drive.
We passed the slim wooden changing cabins on the beach, mainly for Argentinean tourists, before the landscape opened up to wide roads, warehouses, and industrial parking lots. Just outside the city, Sandra parked the car next to a factory bristling with intertwined pipes.
Flames twisted audibly, like a sharp wind, atop its chimneys. Orange halogen lamps lit the plant against the sky. Sandra told me that this industrial zone, a township called Ingeniero White, houses over a dozen petrochemical, fertilizer, and grain factories, some of them the largest of their kind in the world. It is, she said, one of the most polluted places in Argentina.