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Maybe a mile cycle ride from Italy to Croatia via Slovenia with my year-old dad Stephen was a junction too far. It was functional between , and was then converted into a cycle route 20 years ago.
Our plan was to cycle the mile route then continue down to Pula on the tip of the peninsula. There is coffee in the air and the crisp autumn sun is shining when we pick up our bikes in Trieste from the Croatian company Fiore Tours. We are glad of the extra power on the first day — the hardest by far, featuring a thigh-burning ascent over the Italian border into Slovenia , followed by a freewheeling descent to the pretty seaside towns of Koper and Portoroz where we stop for an espresso and a paddle.
Getting out of Trieste turns out to be the most challenging part, but once we do, the Slovenian cycle routes are spectacular. The Adriatic sparkles on your right and there are pumpkin farms on your left, with each turn revealing a view of medieval terracotta-tiled villages by the water.
We cycle past the mirrored Piran salt flats and Yugoslavian casinos from the s and cross the border into Croatia. The scenery is hilltop towns, woodland and miles of terrace-laced hills. Hollywood thinks so too. At night they plug into the mains and have enough power to last the whole of the next day. On day two we take a loop to the coast, riding past camping grounds closed for the season and stopping for swims in the sea and a lunch of oil-drizzled sardines.