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And so we return to the beginning. Like so many who find themselves deeply captivated by this most miraculous country, Mostar was where it all began for me. I arrived at the bus station in as an impressionable year-old with no idea what he was doing.
So, from me to you, thank you. Mostar remains my favourite city in Bosnia and Herzegovina despite its deep flaws and often infuriating stubborn nature. Despite the hopes of optimistic commentators, it is a divided city, split east to west, creating two parts of one whole that are very much opposites.
East Mostar is where most of the visitor action takes place, a warren of history and heritage that wears its past like a badge of honour. West Mostar is curious in its own way, but its soul remains hidden under modern development and traffic.
I love them both intensely. Mostar is the largest city in Herzegovina, a historical beauty straddling the Neretva River that takes its name from the men who guarded the bridge, not the bridge itself.