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Almost everyone making this trip takes the scenic coastal route. But with a spirit of adventure, I take the back road instead: inland first, then looping north through the Serbian part of Herzegovina.
Bosnia-Herzegovina is one nation, historically divided into two regions: Bosnia and Herzegovina. But the Dayton Peace Accords gerrymandered the country along sectarian lines, giving a degree of autonomy to the area where Orthodox Serbs predominate. From the main Croatian coastal road just south of Dubrovnik, directional signs would send me to a tiny Croatian border town — but ignore the large Serbian city of Trebinje just beyond. And yet, Trebinje more than exists. As I enter the city, police with ping-pong-paddle stop signs pull me over.
I learn that you must drive with your headlights on at all hours. Parking the car, I head to an outdoor market to get cash at an ATM to buy some produce. Like everything else in Bosnia-Herzegovina, the currency is a careful balancing act. Later, after a two-hour drive on deserted roads through a rugged landscape, I arrive at the humble crossroads village of Nevesinje.
A cluttered little grocery is my solution for a quick meal. The old man behind the counter seems happy to make me a sandwich. Salami, which looks like Spam, is the only option. Then I munch, drink, and watch the street scene.