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A festival of sights, sounds, and flavours, Bangladesh awaits intrepid travellers who brave some of the most dangerous roads, maddest drivers, and perpetual sensory overload. In droves, and by all means. It took 2 hours to cover 20km from the airport to the hotel. I left overwhelming Dhaka without delay the next morning for a launch to Barisal to visit a little known floating market in Kuriana. It was guava season, and a serendipitous encounter allowed me to share a small boat with Ashraful, a talented freelance local photographer-traveller and the only other tourist at 8am.
There were quite a few heavy sweating moments — literally and figuratively — and unfortunately also a few ghastly sights of fatal accidents and road rage. The chars — river islands — in Sariakandi near Bogra were flooded by the monsoon, displacing many of the poorest communities. Sohan and his family kindly invited me to share their boat to tour around the beautiful bay. What a pleasant afternoon with Friday local tourists, munching thirst-quenching salted amra — a local sweet and sour fruit — seeing highly photogenic jute harvest for the first time, watching the Jamuna river go by….
I was already stunned by the breathtaking floating market and jute harvest. There were still the largest, 13thC dome mosque in Bagerhat; an even older, 9th century magnificent Buddhist temple, Somipura Vihara, in Paharpur; the crowning 18thC Hindu temple, Kantajew, in Dinajpur; countless rajbaris — aristocratic mansions — and temples in ruins throughout the country; and beautiful historic Panam city in Sonargaon….
I had originally planned this trip with a sole purpose in mind: meeting the Nobel Peace laureate and founder of the Grameen Bank, Professor Mohammed Yunus to study the viability of micro-credit programs in refugee communities in Lebanon and migrant populations in the Thai-Burmese border.