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Around us, skateboarders practised tricks, ochre-hued pumpkins were piled high on market stalls, and a temporary stage for an evening concert was being erected. Nowadays, Graz is forging ahead with a new story, a tale firmly rooted in sustainability. Thankfully, for us as travellers, being sustainable in Graz is far from a chore; the hard work has already been done for us.
Becoming a temporary member of this passionate community is as easy as eating well or buying a not-so-typical souvenir. But first, you might need to stray away from the most famed attractions in search of more local neighbourhoods. With only around beds for visitors, the city is far from being overrun. This has allowed the medieval streets and magical courtyards to remain a place for residents rather than a fairytale-style tourism town.
For decades, these districts across the River Mur were often avoided by both Old Town dwellers and visitors. In recent years, however, gentrification has crept in. Choosing a traditional hotel, such as the third-generation family-run Hotel Gollner — it even has a resident dog — is one of the easiest ways to enjoy a warm welcome to the city and help mitigate the impact of investment-style tourism accommodation. Regardless of where you stay in Graz, there are plenty of chances to connect with and celebrate the local communities.
Luckily, the dates of my autumn visit to Graz coincided with one of those special events: Grieskram. Founded by a local hairdresser as a neighbourhood festival, the event has stayed true to its roots. Every September, the streets of Gries celebrate all that is great about the community.