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Only Alex and Anna sent everything in Group A, and they are tied for 1st with 8 total attempts each. Alex took 5 tries on quali 1 a mantle to stand-up on a slab and then flashed the rest.

Alex trying to balance mantle on A1. She fell off the stand-up to the next hold a few times, then stuck it and finished. To the right you can see A2, A3, and the top of A4. A better shot of the A problems.

From right, A4, A3, A2. Shauna on the slippery B2. B1 to her right, B3 and B4 to her left. For Group B, Akiyo Noguchi looked casual, flashing the first 3 before taking 3 tries to send problem 4. Her score was the best of the round—4 tops in 6 goes, and she was one of only 3 Group B competitors to send all their qualis. She was the only person to flash Quali B4. Hopefully she has a successful semifinal as well. Thomo is a Canadian climber, first famous from her ascent of the V10 Zero-Zero in Squamish in the early s after only a couple of years of climbing, continually famous as the strongest female boulderer in Canada, who has sent many problems up to V12 outdoors and made many FFAs, and who is also the mother of a darling 6-year-old named Cedar.

Two years ago around this time Thomo was sitting on my couch and we were watching the live feed of a bouldering World Cup. But she had some concerns. She has a 6 year old daughter. Traveling to these comps is expensive, and there is no federation support. She has no trainer or physio. However, other older female competitors, some with children, helped Thomo see that it would be possible. If anything, she figured, she would grow from the experience. Despite the difficulties and the risks, she decided to go for it—to push herself in a new way, to try competing, on ropes and in bouldering—and see what happened.