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The church bells echoed through the quiet town streets of Berat, Albania. It was 6pm, and it was time for giro. I assumed that the giro was an old tradition, guidebook hype, or something that happened only on special, designated days.

Not the case. Picture, for a moment, your fondest — or most horrifying — memory of a middle school roller skating party. The intense awkwardness. The desire to impress. The gawkers and the showboaters — the whole intense, adolescent mess that was the rollerskating rink at that moment. That is giro in Albania, and it happens every night.

At just after the bells tolled six, everyone — and I mean, literally, everyone — in town wandered down to the riverside road henceforth referred to as the rruga promenada to promenade. Women are dressed as if going to a cocktail hour or the prom, complete with fresh makeup and styling. Old men don fedoras and jackets while younger ones wear jeans and collared shirts.

Young mothers bring their strollered infants, and generations arrive together, all to walk, back and forth, round and around along the rruga promenada. As teenagers gossip, gawk, flirt awkwardly, and posture, older men plant themselves on brightly-painted benches to watch the waves of residents stroll by. One can imagine the conversations about the weather, town gossip, and how everyone, even Aferdita, looks nicer now than they did under communism. However, it was difficult to find out what Berat residents thought about the giro.