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Tirana is unlikely to make City Break status for quite some time. It has no old town and thanks to some bold cartography in the National History Museum, only emerged as a capital in the C17th because of its centrality.
The blue-mauve mountain backdrop to Rinas airport teases the visitor into expectation that something precious is being cradled, the dotted villas within its lower green folds intimating a style of architecture that is immediately abandoned upon leaving the airport road for the capital-bound highway.
Foreign university buildings stand new, high and shiny along this route together with independent hotels, garage showrooms and office blocks for rent. Within ten or so miles, a tiny, balding roundabout hump slashes progress to a crawl and then a lurch as the traffic before us dithers over which exit to take before roaring off its indecision either side of the still-drifting vehicle in front.
Erected in , exactly years after his death, his rock-mounted statue somehow defied Communist modification emerging calmly at the end of a semi-circle of landscaped lawn and flower beds as if he is about to ride through, unchallenged, the chaos of the traffic before him. Traffic lights seem to exist merely to add colour rather than function to the scene, especially as several vehicles remain unlit during the evening hours. For those — officially — too young to drive, a concrete rink formerly bearing the fountains is now the arena for motorized toy buggies to imitate their roadside elders, adding a zip to the cacophony of horns and brake squeals.
