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The moment we stepped into the tiny Albanian bar bearing mint-green walls, I regretted having not been more studious in Italian class years before. The seven of us rapidly defaulted to Italian, soon learning that we really only needed to use the universal language to communicate. The warm sound of an accordion is what lured us into the bar, after all.
Then came the contagious laughter of the men inside and the promise of an authentic experience, in a country not yet on the tourist radar. The owner, Nikola, pulled out two chilled cans of B52, an energy drink that would have us buzzing for hours to come. He set them on our table, and made it known that this was his treat. There was no way that he was going to let us pay.
The men sang. During more passionate measures, he looked as if he were about to cry, but then there came a brilliant, merry crescendo, and his face sported a wide-eyed grin. I imagined Luigi during those decades, belting out a tune on the same accordion. One of them was a violinist. That fellow only stayed for a few songs, then bid his friends goodbye, pedaling off on his little bike.
I asked Luigi if I could play a tune. He obliged, helping me strap on the accordion and offering his muscle power to pump the bellows. Americans probably recognize this song from the film, the Sting , or as one often belted out of ice cream trucks, but for the Southeastern Europeans, I think it was an unknown jingle.