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But after a jarring first few days where I felt both dizzy from the jet lag and the immersion into abundance, everything is feeling familiar again. There is a nice sense of relief that comes from being in a culture we understand.

Well, mostly understand. And coming to America directly after a month in Albania has given us a real sense of contrast and the imbalance of opportunity. After 45 years of a repressive and closed dictatorship, no one takes their opportunity for granted in Albania. Young Albanians are globally aware with media and the internet, and emigration is still seen as the primary path to success, whether it be legal emigration to the US, UK, France, or Germany or a more desperate journey to Italy across the Adriatic.

But as always, I digress and obsess about geo and socio-economic issues. A chance to talk to people at the source. Read, learn, and experience at the same time. Sometimes these hidden gems are some of your favorite places. Untouristed cities offer the opportunity to get off the guidebook and instagram track. Elbasan, Albania is the fourth largest city in Albania and only about 45 minutes south of Tirana.

I figured out that the one international bus from Lake Ohrid to Tirana went right through Elbasan on the way. It would also save us going back into busy Tirana to transfer to Berat later. I held off booking any accommodation until we confirmed on the bus. We asked the driver as we boarded and they put our luggage in a separate compartment underneath. As it turned out, we were the only two getting off anywhere else on this run. The bus was a complete mix of passengers from other Balkan countries and further afield, so the border crossing between North Macedonia and Albania was slow.