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Epirus, a harsh mountainous region stretching from Berat in Albania into the heartland of northern Greece at Ioannina, is a territory that has captured to imagination of adventurous types for centuries.
In ancient times, these mystical highlands played host to a Greek oracle, as famous as the one at Delphi, and a proud mountain people as strong as any greekman. The Epirus I sought to see was the one that had inspired Lord Byron, the famous English poet, to venture here in a Turkish controlled land that forbade the intrusion of Europeans.
The warlord renowned though Europe for his cunning, bravery and profound cruelty. I came to this land to see the most authentic Ottoman village in the world, once remote, isolated by a mountain chain and scarcely changed since the arrival of Byron.
The upper half of the city, the Old Town retains its ancient charms, whereas the lower half is the new town, a more modern iteration of the city. To its south is the small agricultural town of Lazarat, until recently famous for its mob owned marijuana production.